“AN author,” says Fielding, in his introduction to _Tom Jones_, “ought toconsider himself, not as the gentleman who gives a private oreleemosynary treat, but rather as one who keeps a public ordinary, towhich all persons are welcome for their money. Men who pay for what theyeat, will insist on gratifying their palates, however nice and whimsicalthese may prove; and if everything is not agreeable to their taste, willchallenge a right to censure, to abuse, and to damn their dinner withoutcontrol.
“To prevent, therefore, giving offence to their customers by any suchdisappointment, it hath been usual with the honest and well-meaning hostto provide a bill of fare, which all persons may peruse at their firstentrance into the house; and having thence acquainted themselves with theentertainment which they may expect, may either stay and regale with whatis provided for them, or may depart to some other ordinary betteraccommodated to their taste.”
In the present instance, the host or author, in opening his newestablishment, provided no bill of fare. Sensible of the difficulties ofsuch an undertaking in its infancy, he preferred that it should make itsown way, silently and gradually, or make no way at all. It _has_ madeits way, and is doing such a thriving business that nothing remains forhim but to add, in the words of the good old civic ceremony, now that onedish has been discussed and finished, and another smokes upon the board,that he drinks to his guests in a loving-cup, and bids them a heartywelcome.